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TerryC writes:
Here is a project that I completed today.
This is a 1930's walnut dresser with a 2 inch piece
of curved molding missing above the left front leg.
The first step that I did was to insert anchors (small nails)
into the opening so that my fill would have something to hold onto.
I then constructed a "dam" at the top & bottom using 1/8" thick scrap wood
coated on the inside with Burn-in Balm so the fill would release.
I then applied my first layer of "Bondo" into the opening.
I let this dry for aprox 4 minutes and using a razor blade,
I cut a rough profile of the molding. Using 80 grit sandpaper
and my finger as a guide, I sanded away the excess bondo
until I was satisfied with the molding profile at this point.
I applied a second and a third application of Bondo until
I was satisfied with the profile after carving and sanding.
I fine-tuned the profile using 150 grit paper, then up to 220
and then up to 320 to smooth everything out.
There were a few small pin holes in the hardened Bondo ...
I used a white (the only one that I had) hard wax edging stick
to fill these. I sanded away the excess with 150 grit paper
and smoothed everything again with 220 and 320 grit.
Using a variety of Blendal powders and French Lac liquid, I brushed on
my first coat of color. I allowed this to dry and sanded over with 320 grit
to level my color out. A second and a third coat of color was applied
to simulate the existing grain on the piece, sanding in between each coat.
I top coated the repair with a satin high build lacquer twice.
I allowed these layers to dry, and sanded again with 320.
I finished up by "spritzing" some black lacquer from a distance
of about 3 feet. These tiny little specks of black tied the repair
color into the existing color producing a perfect match.
I sanded again with 320, top coated with a final coat of satin
lacquer and rubbed it out with 0000 steel wool.
In doing this repair, it is fairly important that you do not let the bondo harden
completely when carving and sanding. When the bondo is kind of "rubbery"
to the touch, this is the best time to shape it. When it is completely hard,
you can do your "fine tuning" to the exact profile using the finer grits of sandpaper.
Terry Campbell
Wyoming