Steve Austin writes:
Not many shops will tackle these factory painted hoosiers, but,
I've done quite a few of them, and I know what I'm going to run
into, and how to deal with it.
They're very difficult to do, and very difficult to make halfway
decent looking. This finished one is a Sellers, and it's a
combination of oak, maple, and poplar. Stain alone, won't be
enough, you usually have to use a toner over a light stain, which
is what I did with it. It's not a primo piece, but, it's presentable,
for what it is. Darker stains have a tendency to make them go
grundgy looking.
There's no sense screwing around, everything on the top has to
come off, including the back, which is very fragile. You can
replace those, but, they never look right, unless you're really
good with dye stains, and know what they should look like, most
people don't.
No matter how well you strip them, you're going to get ghosting
because of the type of paint it is, and it's a waste of time to try
because it's going to need to be sanded any way. The main thing
is to spend your time stripping the places that are difficult to
sand, like the edges and moldings around the door panels, and
the joints, really well. The ghosting on the flat areas will sand off
faster than you can scrub it off with stripper, so once you're
down to wood, don't worry about it.
The bottom is a different story, it's not neccessary to do more
than take the door and drawers out, and hopefully, you never
have to replace a bottom in one of those, it's a miserable, time
consuming job.
The other photos are of the Napalee hoosier, showing the
ghosting, and the tambour groove and circle. The owner wants
to refinish it himself, heh, heh, heh, so did the owner of the
Sellers, until I explained what he needed to do. Actually, the
doors on this one stripped surprisingly clean, it should be a much
easier job than the Sellers was, and this one is going to look
much nicer, if it's done right.
Steve Austin-NY




