Gary Reynolds writes:

The attached pics show two step panels, each with the same

orange base coat, same glaze, same finish:  basecoat on bare

wood; glaze; sealer; distressing;  lacquer.  The final color varies

on the two panels only because of the depth of the basecoat.  All

else is the same.  By varying the basecoat a little each time, I

have been able to replicate the standard "cherry" finish from Drexel

Heritage as well as other manufacturers.  I have also used variations

on pieces with multiple wood species or varying grades of discoloration

where I'm only looking for a nice finish and not necessarily trying

to match anything.  I wrote about this in Professional Refinishing,

April 2002, in case you might have those lying around somewhere.
 

We also used a linen basecoat followed by a thin wipe on glaze

and appropriate distressing to replicate their antique "ivory" finishes. 

The orange basecoat was mixed exclusively for us by Carolina

Solvents, Hickory, NC, 1-800-767-1108.  I've asked them to

make it available to Groop members under part number:  118

Basecoat, No: 10-8306   Since it is a custom color, there is a 10

gallon minimum order.  It's a lacquer based paint that closely

matches the color of a store-bought orange so you could

probably mix something similar without buying 10 gallons. 

I cut it only enough to spray and varied the intensity by adjusting

gun to work distance.  The finish we were replicating required fly

specks and I simply didn't want to spend alot of money on a

specking gun.  If you use a pressure pot or gravity feed gun, you

can make perfect fly specks by mixing low air pressure with high

material volume and adjusting for the size specks you want.  This

doesn't work with a cup gun.  If you use a specking stain after the

sealer, you can simply wipe it off if it isn't what you want. We initially

used thin, black lacquer for the specks but it bit into the sealer too much. 

Bottom line on this finish is to make AND SAVE your step

panels, varying the intensity of the orange base coat, and use a

rich brown glaze.  We applied the glaze with a brush, let it flash

for a few minutes, then brush it out with a dry brush until it starts

to grab the brush.  That eliminates all the brush marks.  We

distressed with a Mohawk edging stick and a stiff bristle brush

rubbed into the dried glaze on top of the stain bucket and flicked

at random across the finish prior to the topcoat.  Natural bristle

brushes worked best of me.

No doubt there are lots of ways to do this finish but this was fast

and easy and matched perfectly the cherry finishes from Drexel Heritage.

Gary Reynolds
Shelby, NC