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>Shane Harden wrote:
>We are having a difficult time with grain fillers ...
>once we apply the grain filler, we are losing the original stained
>color of the wood we are filling.
>What are we doing wrong?  Our process is as follows:
>Stain piece, Flash coat piece with 15% sealer 85% thinner,
>Apply grain filler, Wipe excess with paint thinner, Let dry

Don Weisman replies:

Shane,

You may not have detailed every step in your filling process. So
just in case...I have a few questions to help locate the problem.

When did any sanding take place and with what grit #?
Are you using product from the same manufacturer? If not, is it
verified to be compatible? Other type question. If the grain was
supposed to be dark, shouldn't you have put the dark in first?

I fill grain quite frequently. I find it easy to apply. I agree with
Macfee on the time application and result and do so any time I
want or need to produce a superior quality finish. Many times, I do
not or there is no need to add to the final price. But, my procedure is
different than most others in groop.  It consistently works very good for me.

I am attaching 2 photo's that I snapped back in January, 07 which
kind of show the application and partial filler removal.

Photo 001 is applying the paste wood filler.
Photo 002 is removing the paste filler after flashing.

After stripping and sanding, we apply the pore filler directly on to
the wood. This is done with a "Chip" (cheap bristle) brush.-Photo #001.

Then allowed to flash.  Then removed with a plastic scraper used
for smoothing Bondo which is available from Auto paint
distributors.  After scraping the surface is rubbed down with coarse
cotton rags from Towel Services company's.  Then left to dry overnight.

Then lightly hand sanded with a 220# to remove any little chunks
left over and which also removes the oil slick. At this point the top
is glossy and as smooth as could be.

After wiping with a towel we stain using NGR. In a short time it is
dry enough to apply, A normal coat of sanding sealer.

After sanding with 320#, we probably would use Toner spray cans
to even up any dramatic color differences due to open and non-
open pore, sap and heartwood, or other large color differences as
close to the wood as possible.

Two (usually) top coats are applied. We use SherwinWilliams
Sherwood PreCat throughout excepting for the Paste wood Pore
filler which is an Oil base.

This procedure works for me every time.









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