RE: Glue Pot Improvements

>Now if I could just find a way to heat the surfaces.  I had to re-veneer 
>some real nice 30's pieces, this week, and the cold gave me fits.  
>Tried heat lamps to no avail.  Finally gave up & used Old Yellow.
>Michael R



Michael R, 

The great thing about hide glue is that it can be reheated within a day or two 
while the moisture content is high.  I'd advise you to try this method:  put the 
veneer on by brushing both the back side and the substrate. IF it doesn't lay 
down quite right at first, wait a day or two and come back with a clothes iron 
on low maybe using a sheet of wax paper between the veneer and the iron so 
any squeezed out glue doesn't dry on the iron surface and pull the veneer off 
as you move the iron!  Works for me even on patches, curved surfaces, etc.  

DaveC


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> The idea is to have a cast iron pot made that would fit the heater, but only
> hold a cup or two.  The extra mass would take a bit longer to heat up in the
> morning, but it would allow me to take the pot across the shop for longer
> times without the glue begining to cool.
> As I write this I began to wonder if the cast iron is a problem.
> Does anyone know of a foundry that would be able to cast a small run of
> these pots?


Reed:

Interesting you should mention cast iron glue pots. Last fall I bought a glue pot 
made by Fanner Manufacturing Co., Cleveland, Ohio. It's about four ounce size 
with an outer pot with a bail handle and an inner pot that has a hinged lid with 
a cut out for a small brush. It looks to have been made prior to the turn of the 
last century (notice the y2k corrected reference?). 

Haven't used it yet as I normally use eight ounce bottles that are virtually 
disposable (bought 4 gross for $15). I haven't even considered not using it 
because of it's metal, but just because it makes a great interesting 
paper weight on my desk.

Utah Rich



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