RE: Wax

 > I am developing a wax for antiques and am interested in
 > finding out all I can about furniture polish and solvents.
 >  Susan McLoughlin



Susan:

If you are developing this wax for sale I would concentrate on selling the 
sizzle and not the wax.   I'm not saying not to come up with your own 
formula but I think just about every wax combination has been done.  
You should have a good product I would just put more effort into marketing.

Mike Dunk
MI

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> Could someone post George Franks "formula and technique"
> for making waterbased emulsion wax.
> Thanks,
> Jim Rice


Martin O'Brien writes:

Jim and Groop,
    
Here is formula for making George Frank Water Wax,   I am copying it directly
from his book so Alan, I am hoping that you will use your discretion when posting
this so as to not get you, me or whole groop into deep trouble with kopywrite
kops.  I respect copywrite laws, but don't know any other way to get this info to
you.  Incidentally, all materials mentioned here are available as a kit from 
Old Mill Cabinet Shop             www.oldmill.com.

    
"In a nonmetallic container (enamel coated is acceptable) heat a little over 3
1/2 quarts of water (rainwater is best).  When it boils, add to it a little over
an ounce of triethanolamine. In another container, melt a little over four ounces
each of carnauba and candelilla waxes - I prefer the unrefined versions of both,
if available - plus about 6 1/2 ounces of stearic acid.  When this is melted, add
slowly the wax mixture to the hot water.  Let it cool, stirring frequently with a
wooden stick.  When cool, the waxes are emulsified and will have the 
consistency of heavy cream.  The color will be a pale green-gray-beige."

  As far as the how to use the wax, there are really no instructions in George
Frank's book.   I stored mine in plastic containers.  I still have some that I made 
about  4 years ago that seems to have survived on the shelf, but it looks like it 
needs to be heavily stirred.  It's probably best to mix less than the recipe calls for.  

I have found that the wax dries really quick and using it as sparingly as possible 
helps.  One problem is that it leaves white residue in crevices and corners the 
way automobile waxes do when you are waxing your car. This observation led 
me to believe that automobile waxes are chemically similar to this wax.  

I have tried tinting this wax with powder pigments, but they seem to cause the 
wax to dry even quicker.  It's the quick drying and hardening of the wax that 
makes it difficult to buff out.  I admit that I did not spend as much time as
I should have playing with the wax to really be qualified to comment, but I've
found that few people had much experience with water emulsion waxes so 
I guess we're all qualified.  Just start playing.
   
 As far as coloring the wax,  I would try using Mohawk powders which seem 
more concentrated so less is required.  Maybe water based dyes or Trans-tint 
could be used?????
    
I would say that water waxes have not seen as much use because water is
generally considered a stronger solvent than mineral spirits in the conservation
arena.  Water waxes seem to clean better, I guess because water is more 
polar (dirt attracting) than mineral spirits.  (Review the Don Williams "solvent"
lectures)
    
I'm going to switch gears a bit a ask what the groop knows about shellac wax.
Thanks to one of Jeff Jewitt's articles in FWW, I do know that the wax from
de-waxed shellac ends up in shoe polish.  It is also sold by Kremer Pigments, 
I have some, but have found that it is not soluble in mineral spirits.  Needless to
say, I've made little headway with it.  I have however for the past 10 years used
a formula given to me by a cabinetmaker/friend.  It is one large can (or two
regular size) of Kiwi Brown shoe polish (some shellac wax in here I assume)  
mixed with one can of Johnson's Paste wax.  (Both procured in grocery store).  
This wax has given me the most consistent results of any wax I have used.  It's 
on the shiney side, but most waxes are, in fact the only wax I have used that is 
less shiney is "Antiquewax"  (procured from Homestead I think).  I am still on a 
wax quest that I don't think will ever end.  I plan on ordering some Kiwi Bois from
Hummer.com to use and compare with Kiwi shoe polish.  I think Mylands wax 
has shellac wax in it also, but have yet to try it.  Also want to try "Shellawax" 
from the land down under which has shellac in it rather than just the wax.
    
It just now occured to me that of all the waxes I've used, none have disappointed 
me.  That is I've never thrown away a wax I've bought to try.  This probably means 
you can't really go wrong, you'll just start to notice differences (some can help 
you out of a jam) in how different brands perform.  If appropriate I will list brands 
I have used with my observations of their performance.

    MartinO







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