RE: Removing Red Mahogany Stain

> What is a good "green" to use for neutralizing a red tint? 
> (To be used with NC topcoat.)
> Solarlux?  Transtint?  Sherwin Williams? 
> Hand or spray applied?
> I need help as there is a big job on the horizon that may need 
> skillful application of this technique.  
> ~Rich Conley




I love the TransTint dyes for shading.  
The green works great against the red.

KevinHancock


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Any one of these will work. 
I usually spray it as a toner (mixed in lacquer)

Jeff


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If this is for interior work, I would use a more lightfast dye, as the 
transparency will allow you to "filter" out the red without obscuring 
the figure or depth of the wood.  

For exterior work, a very fine grind of pigment (to allow the greatest 
transparency with the permanence of the pigment) would be most effective.

Good luck. . .practice on scrap or sample panels first.

Greg Williams


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hi rich....

I can only assume you are talking about the hated red mahogany dye 
that was used so prevalently way back when.... sorry but gotta ask........
what is it you are doing, what kind of wood, what is the color you want to 
achieve...all reflect just how i might go about playing with green.....
let me know and we'll go from here.

michelle d
wood not shop


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Alan Noel writes:

>>The only drawback to this technique is that it pretty much kills 
>>any of the inherent "figure" (i.e., chatoyancy or iridescent lightplay) 
>>common to mahoganies and other desirable woods -
>>it looks pretty "dead" by way of comparison.
>>Can't have everything I guess...


Bob, BobO, Groop,

The music died when they asked for cherry.

No one can make clear mahogany look like clear cherry, that'd be magic.

So, you gotta fake it.

I just start with Minwax because it's been around the shop forever and 
always worked.  Cherry, nice clay red to start. Provincial's next, nice 
heavy tan clay for layering along  with a faint hint of yellow in the dusted 
sealer coats for a start.

Your right Bobo, "Can't have everything".......but, you can have a 
quick turn-a-round. That's the flip side, cha-ching!

I love to smile at my teller, she's pretty.

PS, Happy new tax season all..........can you say cha-ching?


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Frank LaRoque writes:


Rich,
    
Hi, haven't talked to you for a while.
    
The answer to your question was the reason that I joined the Groop last
year.
    
Someone suggested using "M/S Tinter Green # 4L (35-1735-9) " Made by
Pratt and Lambert and distributed by ML Campbell.
    
It is a real deep green and can be added to lacquer, DuraVar or applied
straight or can be deluted for a less color depth. I do not have the MSDS
sheet on the ingredients.
    
I use this color a lot for tinting to other shades and for the ability to soften 
red to brown. The neat thing is if you start with a very reduced green color, 
you can keep adding coats to acheive the brown that you want.
     
I have reduced it with lacquer thinner and sprayed it on.I have brushed
it on straight, also.
     
I will send you a sample if you want.
     
I have even added it to the final finish coat to give a greenish cast to the 
amber in DuraVar for killing the red in a mahogany side board where
the top did not match the drawer fronts.
    
I have used it straight in an air brush to reduce the deep red streaks
in some species of woods after stripping, and right before staining.
    
I have also used too much and have had a real pretty deep green top with
a brownish cast. :)

....LaRoque Onthe Loose....
....Tell Joe hi from me....
....@ 4:30 PST was 3" of fresh snow and more on the way....




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