RE: Hide Glue

> I always seem to have to lay bubbles & such with an iron when I'm 
> doing large surfaces.  That's why I'm going to get a vacuum press 
> before my next large job.  I use 1/8" neoprene sheet as a caul liner 
> -- maybe that's part of the problem.
> It was so cold in the shop
> that I couldn't even spread the glue.  
> It gelled as soon as it hit the wood....
> Michael R



Dave Colglazier writes:

Sounds like you diagnosed the problem and responded with what you know 
would work.  I like that but I feel you may have been too worried about the 
water in the glue swelling the drawer front and shrinking too much upon drying.

Here's why I feel that way!  The hide glue gelled upon contact, therefore it
wouldn't be imparting very much water to the Lumber core? center.  It might
influence the crossbanding  but putting the glue on both sides prevents the
bowing.  Next,  the glue could be heated almost immediately to bring the
layers into contact, then allowed to dry for a while and reheated.  

I like to draw out the excess heat with a SADD iron or a cool iron to set it
quickly while applying pressure.  Even if you let the glue air dry from here
on out it will remain somewhat flexible as the water comes out letting the
veneer layers to stabilize.  The strong center layer will almost always hold
the front flat while the glue fully dries.  I also clamp the front if possible during 
the drying period which might take a week in summer and a couple of days 
during the heating months.  

Just my experience working with hide glue and veneers.  You seem to get 
some pretty difficult jobs, probably turned down by other shops!  LOL  

DaveC

P.S. Also crotch veneer acts alot like burl so with the wild grain the
forces pull in all directions and pretty much even out over time!




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